ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Shellfish and cephalopods

Sumi Ika

a squid with an internal chalky shell in place of cartilage

A squid with a chalky internal shell instead of cartilage. Its flesh stays tender when cooked, springy and thick with a refined sweetness, favored in sushi, stir-fries, and dishes using its ink, said to deepen in flavor winter through spring.

  • Squid and octopus

Lineage

What it's made of

A chalky internal shell runs down the cuttlefish's back, standing in for the cartilage other squid rely on. It is a mid-sized squid, its mantle reaching about 18cm and 600g at most, marked with dark brown bands across the body and a silver stripe at the base of its fins. Its flesh runs thicker than most squid, staying springy and tender even after cooking rather than turning rubbery, with a refined sweetness that deepens the more you chew. That makes it prized for sushi, stir-fries, and dishes built around its own ink.

How it's made

Caught incidentally in bottom trawls and gillnets, but the more targeted method is a squid-pot fishery aimed at large adults moving inshore to spawn, said to be especially important in bays like Shimabara in the Ariake Sea. Landings are reportedly best around 10-15°C with seafloor salinity holding steady in the 33-34 range, targeting cuttlefish that live on sandy, muddy bottoms 10 to 100 meters down. Its spring habit of laying eggs on inshore rocks and seaweed shapes how the fishery is timed.

Why it took this shape

From early spring through early summer, cuttlefish head into sheltered bays to lay eggs on rocks and seaweed, and the shallow, weed-rich waters of the Seto Inland Sea are said to make an ideal spawning ground. Calm bay conditions rich in small fish and shrimp are thought to be what lets the flesh grow so thick, one likely reason the fishery has long been active along the Okayama coast. The April-to-May window just before spawning, prized as its peak season, traces back to that same coastal environment.

Before You Go

Dishes in the same style

All Shellfish and cephalopods

Ingredients and dishes from this land

Known source

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