ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Shellfish and cephalopods

Shako

a flat-bodied crustacean known for its punch-like strike

A flat, elongated crustacean known for punching prey with its powerful forelimbs. Shelled, its flesh is delicate and mildly sweet. In Edo-style sushi it is typically brushed with a sweet-savory glaze, in season through spring.

  • Shrimp and crab

What it's made of

A flat, elongated crustacean whose shell hides soft white flesh. Known for using its powerful forelimbs like a hammer to smash open prey, it carries a delicate sweetness once shelled, perhaps as a byproduct of the power stored in those legs. In Edo-style sushi it is usually brushed with a sweet-savory glaze, and egg-bearing females are said to add a popping texture and extra richness between the flesh. Its thin skin is said to peel away easily from the meat.

How it's made

It burrows into the sandy mud of shallow bay-head flats and is caught by bottom trawl. Because it spoils quickly, the catch is typically boiled and shelled soon after landing for use as sushi topping. It grows by repeated molting, thin-shelled and sparse in flesh right after each molt, while its legs are said to fill out best in spring, just before spawning, marking its season.

Why it took this shape

The shallow tidal flats at the head of Tokyo Bay have long been a traditional fishing ground, and this crustacean became a familiar Edo-mae catch there. Because it lives burrowed in sandy mud, its numbers are said to be sensitive to landfill and water-quality change, making annual catches swing widely.

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