ITADAKI ATLAS

Seafood ── Shellfish and cephalopods

Iidako

a small octopus whose egg-filled body suggests cooked rice

A small octopus about 20cm long. In females during spawning season, the body fills with roe whose grains are said to resemble cooked rice — the source of its name. Simmered, the flesh turns tender with a popping roe texture, in season through winter.

  • Squid and octopus

What it's made of

A small octopus, only about 30cm long, common along shallow coasts such as the Seto Inland Sea. In females nearing spawning, the body fills with roe whose grains are said to look like cooked rice, the source of the octopus's Japanese name. Most sold at market run about 10cm, and simmered, the flesh turns tender while roe-carrying females add a popping texture with every bite, a small-octopus pleasure of its own.

How it's made

Mostly caught with pot fishing, using pots built from large bivalve shells, or plastic shells shaped to match, that the octopus is known to move into — gear suited to a small species living on shallow, sandy-muddy ground, hauled up whole once it has settled inside. Females just before spawning, roe fully developed, are especially prized, with the winter-to-spring spawning season doubling as the best time to eat them.

Why it took this shape

The way roe fills a female's body ahead of spawning each winter and spring appears to be what fixed that stretch as the season to eat this octopus. Its small size and habit of living on shallow seafloor are thought to have shaped a pot-fishing method built around shell-mimicking traps, and the shallow coastline running along the Seto Inland Sea is what keeps that pot-fishing tradition alive today.

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