Rice dishes
Uni Meshi
Uni meshi — sea urchin cooked whole into rice, a dish for honored guests
Raw sea urchin is cooked directly into the rice for this dish from the Hagi coast. Urchin from the seaweed-rich waters off Hagi is prized for its sweetness and richness, but its price keeps it off everyday tables—traditionally it was served only to honored guests.
- Origin: Yamaguchi Hagi
- About 770 km west of Tokyo
What it's made of
Raw sea urchin is cooked directly into the rice for this dish from the Hagi coast, distinct from a bowl of rice simply topped with urchin in that the urchin is cooked in together with the grains from the start. The aroma of the sea rises from the finished dish, and a deep richness and sweetness soak into the rice; urchin from the seaweed-rich waters off Hagi is said to grow especially full-flavored thanks to its diet. Not an everyday food given its cost, it has traditionally been served to honored guests instead.
How it's made
Rice is rinsed and soaked in water for 30 minutes to an hour, then drained and placed in the cooking pot. Fresh water, salt or soy sauce, and sake are mixed in, and raw urchin is laid on top before the lid goes on. The pot is heated over medium to high heat until steam rises vigorously, then lowered for about two minutes before the heat is turned off and the rice rests, covered, for roughly 20 minutes. Once done, chopped mitsuba is folded in gently, and the rice is served topped with shredded nori.
Why it took this shape
Urchin from the waters off Hagi is prized for its sweetness, richness, and aroma, but its cost has kept it off everyday tables, tradition holds. Reserved instead for occasions with honored guests, the dish appears to have settled into cooking the urchin directly with the rice as a way of carrying its flavor through every grain. It continues to be made today as a hospitality dish in the Hagi area, centered on Mishima island.
Before you go
- How to use a convenience storeA quick guide to choosing rice balls and hot snacks, buying coffee, paying by cash, IC card, or tap payment, using the eat-in corner, and sorting your trash — the basics for a first visit.
- Station food and ekiben (station bento)Where and when to find ekiben (station bento) before it sells out, etiquette for eating on board, how standing soba and udon stalls work, and where to find souvenirs sold inside the station.
- Soraben and airport diningA guide to what soraben means and how it differs from ekiben, whether to buy before or after security, etiquette for eating on board, airport restaurants, and things to check before buying food souvenirs to take home.
Dishes in the same style
- Aburafu DonDeep-fried wheat gluten, shaped into a log, is simmered in a sweet-savory broth and set with egg over rice, katsudon-style — a Tome City bowl said to trace to a tofu shop's shelf-stable gluten product, later turned into a bowl dish by a local innkeeper.
- Aburi-zushiNigiri with just its surface flash-seared by torch or hot iron. Unlike Edomae's shigoto curing for keeping, the searing here is done purely for the change in aroma and fat it brings — a relatively recent way of eating sushi.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Yamaguchi
- Chikin Chikin GoboBite-size fried chicken and deep-fried burdock are tossed in a sweet soy glaze in this dish, born in Yamaguchi's school lunches. A nutrition teacher is said to have devised it around 1995 from recipes submitted by families, and its catchy, rhythmic name helped it spread into a statewide favorite.
- Chisha NamasuKakichisha, an heirloom crinkled lettuce grown around Shimonoseki, is torn by hand and tossed with vinegared miso, flaked grilled fish, or whitebait. It is said to have been devised by the Mori domain's people after being impoverished by the Battle of Sekigahara, and is also known as "chishamomi."
- Choshu KurokashiwaSaid to draw on the blood of Kurokashiwa, a natural-monument fowl native to Yamaguchi and Shimane, developed into a jidori by a Yamaguchi research station and finished and named by a poultry farm; reportedly free-ranged for 80–100 days.
- Fugu no KaraagePufferfish, marinated in soy sauce and sake, is coated in potato starch and deep-fried—a homely dish from the Shimonoseki and Hagi areas. While pricier tiger pufferfish goes into sashimi and hot pot, the more affordable shirosabafugu species is the one most often fried this way.
- Fuku SashiPufferfish sashimi is sliced so thin it becomes translucent, then arranged in a chrysanthemum pattern in this Shimonoseki dish. Locals call the fish "fuku," a homophone for good fortune, and eat it with citrus ponzu and scallion; the practice traces to 1888, when eating pufferfish was legalized in Yamaguchi alone.
- GobomakiLizardfish skin, a byproduct of making fish cakes, is wrapped around a skewer of burdock root and grilled with a basting sauce—a dish from Hagi. Because it uses lizardfish, prized for the region's grilled fish cakes, seafood processors often make the two together, and it is a fixture of festival and cherry-blossom bento.