Rice dishes
Kujira Gohan
Kujira gohan — rice cooked with whale skin, daikon, and burdock
Whale skin is fried with daikon and burdock and mixed through rice in Hamada and Masuda. Children are said to eat it on Setsubun, wishing to grow as large and strong as the whale itself.
- Origin: Shimane Hamada
- About 700 km west of Tokyo
Lineage
What it's made of
Kujira gohan is a rice dish cooked with stir-fried whale skin along with daikon, burdock, and shiitake mixed in, a dish handed down in the Iwami region around Hamada and Masuda. Whale is said to be highly nutritious and richly flavorful, and as the fatty ingredients mingle with the rice, the dish takes on a warming character well suited to winter.
How it's made
The process begins by pouring boiling water over the whale skin to remove excess fat. Once trimmed, the whale is finely chopped and stir-fried together with daikon, burdock, and shiitake, then seasoned with soy sauce. This is mixed into freshly cooked rice to finish, though some households instead cook the whale, vegetables, and rice all together from the start. When frozen whale is used, it is best thawed slowly in the refrigerator, and because it cooks through quickly, care is taken not to overheat it.
Why it took this shape
Hamada and Masuda, the leading cities of the Iwami region, have both long relied on fishing, and a rice dish built around whale skin is said to have been eaten there since early times. Echoing the whale's great size, children are said to eat the dish on Setsubun in hopes of growing up to achieve something great themselves. In the early Showa era, households in this snowy region reportedly bought whale skin in bulk and salted it for storage, and this way of life is thought to be how the custom of eating whale took root in the area.
Before you go
- How to use a convenience storeA quick guide to choosing rice balls and hot snacks, buying coffee, paying by cash, IC card, or tap payment, using the eat-in corner, and sorting your trash — the basics for a first visit.
- Station food and ekiben (station bento)Where and when to find ekiben (station bento) before it sells out, etiquette for eating on board, how standing soba and udon stalls work, and where to find souvenirs sold inside the station.
- Soraben and airport diningA guide to what soraben means and how it differs from ekiben, whether to buy before or after security, etiquette for eating on board, airport restaurants, and things to check before buying food souvenirs to take home.
Dishes in the same style
- Aburafu DonDeep-fried wheat gluten, shaped into a log, is simmered in a sweet-savory broth and set with egg over rice, katsudon-style — a Tome City bowl said to trace to a tofu shop's shelf-stable gluten product, later turned into a bowl dish by a local innkeeper.
- Aburi-zushiNigiri with just its surface flash-seared by torch or hot iron. Unlike Edomae's shigoto curing for keeping, the searing here is done purely for the change in aroma and fat it brings — a relatively recent way of eating sushi.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Shimane
- Ago-yakiAgo-yaki is Izumo noyaki made from flying-fish paste, fire-baked without a skewer. Its crackling surface and refined sweetness make it a favorite travel souvenir from Shimane.
- Agonoko UmaniThe roe of egg-bearing flying fish, caught only in early summer, is simmered in stock and soy sauce as an Oki bar snack. Its large grains and dense, sticky texture are prized as a delicacy said to be scarcer even than the fish's flesh.
- Akagai Garan MushiArk shell clams from Lake Nakaumi are steamed in their shells in a soy-seasoned broth, also known as akagai no kara-mushi. The name 'garan' is said to come either from a slurred 'kara' (shell) or the rattling sound made while rinsing the shells — a dish long kept for New Year's.
- Azuki ZoniRound mochi sit in azuki beans simmered with a light hand on the sugar, closer in taste to a thin zenzai than a dessert. In the Izumo area some households eat a clear zoni on New Year's Day, then switch to this one from the second.
- Bakudan OnigiriA large round rice ball is wrapped entirely in lightly toasted, soy-brushed rock nori from Oki — its bold look earning it the name 'bakudan,' or bomb. It travels well in lunch boxes and as an everyday snack.
- Dojo Kenchin JiruLoach is simmered with burdock, daikon, and shiitake in a clear soy broth in Yasugi, said to embody the old saying that one loach is worth one eel for stamina — traditionally eaten after washing the mud off from rice planting.