ITADAKI ATLAS

Meat ── Pork cuts

Tonsoku

pig's trotters — collagen-rich, usually sold pre-boiled

The trotters, mostly skin and cartilage. Long simmering turns the collagen soft and gelatinous; usually sold already boiled, and known in Okinawa as "tebichi" in local cooking.

Tonsoku

Lineage

TonsokuMimiga

What it's made of

The trotters, mostly skin, cartilage, and collagen, with barely any lean meat. What defines the bite is the springy give of the connective tissue and the sticky, gelatinous texture of the skin. Fine cartilage gathers around the joints, giving those spots a noticeably different chew from the rest. The skin's surface has a springy bounce, and biting through it releases the soft collagen underneath.

How it's made

Long simmering turns the collagen in the skin and cartilage into gelatin, softening everything into a rich, silky texture. Given the effort involved, it's usually sold already boiled, with home cooks then seasoning and finishing it from there. Splitting it in half before simmering is said to let the seasoning reach further in. A pressure cooker can get it to that fall-off-the-bone softness in less time than a standard simmer.

Why it took this shape

In Okinawa it's known as "tebichi," a local dish built around simmering it for hours until the meat pulls easily from the bone. Being built almost entirely of skin and cartilage is exactly what makes it a cut that only gets better the longer it's cooked. On an Okinawan table, it often shares the same plate with mimiga, another skin-and-cartilage cut built the same way. Rich in collagen, it's also often introduced as a beauty- and health-conscious food choice.

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