ITADAKI ATLAS

Sake & brews ── Nihonshu (sake)

Junmai Ginjo-shu

Junmai ginjo — rice-only sake milled to 60% or less

Sake made purely from rice milled down to 60% or less, with no added alcohol. Fermented slowly at low temperature under what's called ginjo brewing, the style is said to bring out fruit-like aromas while keeping the rice sweetness close to that of junmai.

What it's made of

Only rice, koji, and water go in, and the rice is milled down to 60% or less of its original size. Polishing away the outer protein and fat is said to strip out sources of off-flavor and let through the apple- or pear-like aromas typical of ginjo brewing. The category aims for both the rice sweetness of junmai and the fragrance of ginjo at once, and is considered a relatively recent addition to the naming system.

How it's made

It's fermented using what's called ginjo brewing — a slower mash held at a lower temperature than usual. Because the yeast works more gradually at low temperature, aromatic compounds are said to stay in the sake rather than boiling off, giving a clean profile with little off-flavor. The koji rice itself is also polished to a high degree, said to be a further step toward heading off off-flavors before fermentation even starts, and the whole process is said to take noticeably longer than an ordinary brew.

Why it took this shape

The 60%-or-less milling standard with no added alcohol is said to have been set when the naming system was reorganized in 1989. Unlike ginjo, which allows added brewing alcohol, this category is said to have been created to chase the same aromatic lift using rice alone, and has since been treated as a style suited to gifts and special occasions, holding fragrance and rice sweetness together at once — a relatively recent face within the junmai family.

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