ITADAKI ATLAS

Home-style ── Machi-chuka (Japanese-Chinese diner food)

Wantan-men

Wantan-men — wontons floated in light ramen soup, usually with a meat-heavy filling

Wontons wrapped around minced pork and similar fillings, floated in a light soy- or salt-based ramen soup. In Japan the filling leans toward meat, which sets it apart from Hong Kong's shrimp-led version.

Lineage

Wantan-menShumaiGyoza

What it's made of

Wontons, wrapped in thin skins, drift in a light soy- or salt-based ramen soup. The smooth skins slide into the mouth along with the noodles, and biting through releases the savor of minced pork. In Japan the filling uses plenty of meat, and it is said to differ in flavor from Hong Kong's, which is led by shrimp.

How it's made

A thin sheet of dough kneaded with water is wrapped around seasoned minced pork and chopped scallion, boiled, and floated in soup. Pairing those wontons with a bowl of soy- or salt-flavored ramen makes wantan-men. Few ramen shops treat it as a side item, and it is more often served as a dish in Chinese restaurants.

Why it took this shape

In the north the dumpling is called huntun, while in Guangdong and Fujian it is pronounced 'wantan'. The character 'unton', clouds swallowed, was matched to the same sound because the dumplings floating in soup look like clouds in the sky. Eating wontons together with noodles is said not to be a widespread custom in China, so in Japan it reads as having been folded into ramen as one bowl.

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