ITADAKI ATLAS

Home-style ── Machi-chuka (Japanese-Chinese diner food)

Chashu

Chashu — soy-braised pork, the simmered style that became standard in Japanese ramen

Pork belly or leg is simmered slowly in a soy-based sauce — where China's char siu is traditionally roasted with a glaze, the simmered 'nibuta' style is said to have become the standard at Japanese ramen shops instead.

What it's made of

Chopsticks pull it apart with a soft give, the cut face soaked through with the color of a soy-based sauce. Rather than the fragrance of a seared surface, it's the fat and sweetness of long-simmered meat that comes first, a different flavor profile from China's char siu, built to show off the char of roasting.

How it's made

Pork belly or leg is rolled into shape and simmered low and slow in a stock of soy sauce, sake, and sugar. The braising liquid is often used as part of the ramen broth itself, and simmering time and heat are said to decide how tender the meat turns out. Some shops sear the surface afterward for extra fragrance, but simmering remains the standard method.

Why it took this shape

One account holds that where Chinese-style char siu needs a roasting oven, Japanese ramen shops found it took less effort and equipment to simmer the pork in the same large pot as the soup, and that's thought to be how the simmered style spread. Being able to handle the soup and the topping in a single pot is said to be one reason this became the standard way to prepare chashu.

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