ITADAKI ATLAS

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Uchigae Zoni

Uchigae zoni — a zoni made with firm stone tofu instead of rice cake

Taro is simmered in dried-sardine dashi, then topped not with rice cake but with firm, well-drained stone tofu stacked in layers, in this zoni from the Iya valley. Said to take its name from the way the stacked tofu resembles crossed swords, it is a New Year's dish of the mountain region.

  • Origin: Tokushima Miyoshi
  • About 570 km west of Tokyo
Tokushima Miyoshi

Lineage

Uchigae ZoniIya Soba

What it's made of

In this version of zōni unique to the Iya region of Miyoshi, "iwa-dōfu" (rock tofu) — large, dense blocks of tofu — stands in for the rice cakes usually found in the dish. Made with plenty of soybeans, extra nigari coagulant, and thorough draining, it comes out firm enough to be tied with rope and carried. The broth, made with dried sardine dashi and simmered taro, is topped with slabs of this tofu, and the way the pieces stack is said to resemble swordsmen crossing blades — reportedly the origin of the dish's name, "uchigae," meaning "crossed strikes."

How it's made

Dashi is drawn from dried sardines and seasoned with soy sauce to make the broth. Yatsugashira taro, a variety that produces many offshoots from one corm, is typically simmered and added a few pieces at a time, then topped with two large rectangular slabs of the rock tofu. Unlike ordinary zōni, where rice cakes are grilled or simmered, this dish is simply assembled with the firm tofu as is — though making the tofu itself is said to take considerable time and effort.

Why it took this shape

Rice reportedly grew poorly in the Iya region, where wheat and buckwheat were the staple grains instead. In land unsuited to rice farming, this firm, moisture-drained tofu became a valued source of protein. Before refrigeration, its low moisture content meant it kept well and could be carried, which is said to be why it became essential for New Year's and other festive occasions. The taro variety chosen, which sprouts many buds from a single corm, was reportedly picked for its association with abundance, making it fitting for celebratory meals.

Before you go

Dishes in the same style

Ingredients and dishes from this land

Also from Tokushima

Everything from Tokushima

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