Hot pot & soups
Uchigae Zoni
Uchigae zoni — a zoni made with firm stone tofu instead of rice cake
Taro is simmered in dried-sardine dashi, then topped not with rice cake but with firm, well-drained stone tofu stacked in layers, in this zoni from the Iya valley. Said to take its name from the way the stacked tofu resembles crossed swords, it is a New Year's dish of the mountain region.
- Origin: Tokushima Miyoshi
- About 570 km west of Tokyo
Lineage
What it's made of
In this version of zōni unique to the Iya region of Miyoshi, "iwa-dōfu" (rock tofu) — large, dense blocks of tofu — stands in for the rice cakes usually found in the dish. Made with plenty of soybeans, extra nigari coagulant, and thorough draining, it comes out firm enough to be tied with rope and carried. The broth, made with dried sardine dashi and simmered taro, is topped with slabs of this tofu, and the way the pieces stack is said to resemble swordsmen crossing blades — reportedly the origin of the dish's name, "uchigae," meaning "crossed strikes."
How it's made
Dashi is drawn from dried sardines and seasoned with soy sauce to make the broth. Yatsugashira taro, a variety that produces many offshoots from one corm, is typically simmered and added a few pieces at a time, then topped with two large rectangular slabs of the rock tofu. Unlike ordinary zōni, where rice cakes are grilled or simmered, this dish is simply assembled with the firm tofu as is — though making the tofu itself is said to take considerable time and effort.
Why it took this shape
Rice reportedly grew poorly in the Iya region, where wheat and buckwheat were the staple grains instead. In land unsuited to rice farming, this firm, moisture-drained tofu became a valued source of protein. Before refrigeration, its low moisture content meant it kept well and could be carried, which is said to be why it became essential for New Year's and other festive occasions. The taro variety chosen, which sprouts many buds from a single corm, was reportedly picked for its association with abundance, making it fitting for celebratory meals.
Before you go
- Foods to look for in winterA guide to foods often seen in Japan around winter — nabe hot pot, fugu, oysters, crab, year-end soba, and osechi — with rough pointers for finding them.
- Osechi and zoni for the New YearA guide to the meaning behind osechi's tiered boxes, the regional differences in zoni (square vs. round mochi, clear vs. miso broth), and the nanakusa-gayu custom.
- Setsubun: ehomaki and lucky beansA guide to ehomaki, the uncut sushi roll said to be eaten facing a lucky direction on Setsubun, and to mamemaki, the bean-throwing custom with roasted lucky beans.
Dishes in the same style
- Aichi Miso OdenA pot of sweet red miso sits in the center of the simmering pot, and daikon, tofu, and other ingredients simmered in dashi are dipped into it before eating. While soy-based Kanto-style oden spread in Edo, Aichi is said to have settled on dipping in soybean miso instead.
- Aichi ZoniSquare mochi and mochina, a traditional Owari green, are served in a plain clear broth for New Year — a notably simple zoni. It's speculated that using miso so often in daily cooking is exactly why a clear broth is chosen for this festive occasion, deliberately leaving miso out.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Tokushima
- Amego no HirarayakiA flat stone is heated over a hearth for hours, then a border of miso is built on it to grill amego trout, stone tofu, and konjac — an outdoor dish from the Iya valley. Its name comes from hirara, a local word for a flat stone, and it is said to have long served as a dish for entertaining guests.
- Awa BanchaA post-fermented tea from Naka and Kamikatsu towns in Tokushima, fermented by lactic acid bacteria. Coarser leaves picked from midsummer on are boiled, packed into wooden barrels, fermented for roughly 10 days to two weeks, then sun-dried — said to give a refreshing sourness.
- Awa BitonRaised in the mountains of Awa City, Tokushima, at about 400 meters, on a feed centered on rice. Handlers are said to adjust the feed mix daily and avoid genetically modified crops where possible.
- Awa GyuPedigreed Japanese Black fattened in Tokushima, which gained recognition after being shown at a Tokyo meat market competition in 1962 — said to have a moist, fine-grained texture and modest fat.
- Awa no ItokoniSweet potato that has been boiled then dried — yude-boshi style — is rehydrated and simmered slowly with red beans for about two hours over low heat. Fitting for a region where drying vegetables is common in winter, it is said to be a warming side dish built on the concentrated flavor of dried sweet potato.
- Awa UiroRed bean paste mixed with rice flour and Awa wasanbon sugar is poured into a mold and steamed into a chewy cake. Said to have first been made to celebrate the completion of Awa wasanbon sugar in the Edo period, with related uiro cakes also found in Nagoya and Yamaguchi.