Hot pot & soups
Nakami Jiru
Nakami jiru — a clear soup of well-cleaned pork intestine and stomach
Pork large and small intestine and stomach are scrubbed with tofu lees or flour and boiled down again and again to strip away fat and any trace of gaminess, then finished as a clear soup in bonito-and-pork broth. Served at celebrations and memorial meals, its clean flavor belies its offal base.
- Origin: Okinawa
- About 1560 km southwest of Tokyo
Lineage
What it's made of
Pork intestines and stomach are simmered into a clear broth for this Okinawan soup, also called nakami no suimono. Despite being built from offal, the flavor comes out remarkably clean, the result of careful preparation that leaves no trace of gaminess in the finished bowl. Both pork and bonito go into the stock, and a garnish of grated ginger at the end lifts the aroma. For a more formal table, the dish is sometimes pared down to the intestines alone, or finished with nothing more than a few shiitake.
How it's made
The intestines are rubbed clean with okara or wheat flour, then parboiled and drained repeatedly, six or seven times, to strip away fat and odor. Once the smell is gone, they're simmered again from cold water until tender, sliced thin, and parboiled once more. Pork and bonito stocks are combined with rehydrated dried shiitake and seasoned with salt or soy sauce into a clear soup, finished with a spoonful of grated ginger. Some households also add konjac or fish cake to the pot.
Why it took this shape
Within a food culture that uses every part of the pig without waste, the technique of carefully preparing organ meat into a clean, clear soup is said to have been refined over generations. The dish was once served at New Year celebrations, festive occasions, and memorial services, and is now eaten as an everyday food as well. Hihatsu, a peppery local spice, was once used for its distinct fragrance, though grated ginger has since become the common substitute.
Before you go
- Foods to look for in winterA guide to foods often seen in Japan around winter — nabe hot pot, fugu, oysters, crab, year-end soba, and osechi — with rough pointers for finding them.
- What to know if you have dietary restrictionsHow allergen labeling works, where fish-based dashi, pork, and alcohol turn up, and phrases for checking with staff.
- At yakiniku, shabu-shabu, and hot potGrilling your own meat at yakiniku, swishing thin slices at shabu-shabu, and sharing from the pot — the customs behind each.
Dishes in the same style
- Aichi Miso OdenA pot of sweet red miso sits in the center of the simmering pot, and daikon, tofu, and other ingredients simmered in dashi are dipped into it before eating. While soy-based Kanto-style oden spread in Edo, Aichi is said to have settled on dipping in soybean miso instead.
- Aichi ZoniSquare mochi and mochina, a traditional Owari green, are served in a plain clear broth for New Year — a notably simple zoni. It's speculated that using miso so often in daily cooking is exactly why a clear broth is chosen for this festive occasion, deliberately leaving miso out.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Okinawa
- Ashi TibichiPig's trotters are simmered for hours with kelp and daikon until the bone slides free on its own. Rooted in the belief that eating a body part heals the same part in the eater, it's traditionally favored by older people, anyone with trouble in the legs, or those minding their skin.
- AwamoriA distilled spirit from Okinawa made only from Thai rice and black koji, with every grain of rice turned into koji in a method called zen-koji-jikomi. Citric acid from the black koji is said to keep the mash from spoiling even in hot, humid conditions, and it's classified alongside shochu as a single-distillation spirit.
- Chii IrichiiPork blood is worked with pork meat, carrot, and wood-ear mushroom into a distinctive stir-simmered dish. Rooted in the same eat-what-ails-you logic as ashi tibichi, it was thought to guard against anemia, and it's traditionally offered before Lunar New Year and at memorial services.
- Chimu ShinjiPork liver and a native yellow carrot are simmered down almost like a medicinal decoction, meant for days the body needs support. It follows the kusuimun idea that food itself can be medicine, and is traditionally made for anemia or when someone's caught a cold.
- Gooyaa ChanpuruuBitter goya is stir-fried together with Okinawa's firm tofu and egg. A dish only earns the name champuru once tofu is in it, and this one has long served double duty — coaxing back a summer-flagged appetite while delivering vitamin C, now eaten year-round.
- HanazakeA distilled spirit made only on Yonaguni, Japan's westernmost island, at around 60 percent alcohol. Its raw materials and method are the same as awamori, but because its proof exceeds awamori's legal ceiling, it's classified as 'spirits' rather than awamori under the liquor tax law.