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Tsushima
Tsushima — cooked tofu tossed with vegetables in a sweet-vinegar dressing
Pan-cooked tofu is tossed with carrot, burdock, and dried shrimp, each pre-simmered in dashi for flavor—a dish from the Shunan area. Made entirely from cooked ingredients, it keeps well and has long served as both an everyday side and a dish for welcoming guests.
- Origin: Yamaguchi
- About 750 km west of Tokyo
What it's made of
Pan-cooked tofu, its moisture cooked off, is tossed with shredded carrot and burdock pre-simmered in dashi and soy sauce, along with dried shiitake and dried shrimp, in this dish from the Shunan area. It resembles a sesame- or tofu-based dressed salad at a glance, but the tofu is boiled first and every ingredient is fully cooked, giving a texture that pairs tofu's crumbly richness with the crunch of root vegetables. Boiled string beans are often scattered on top for color.
How it's made
Tofu is boiled in salted water, drained, pressed dry, then pan-cooked until further dried and left to cool. Rehydrated dried shiitake, carrot, and burdock are shredded and simmered, then cooled and combined with dried shrimp. The tofu, seasoned with soy sauce, sugar, vinegar, and salt, is tossed with these ingredients and topped with shredded string beans. Some households add cucumber as well.
Why it took this shape
Several explanations exist for the name; one holds that it traces to the Edo period, when a fisherman from Kushigahama in present-day Shunan guided a Korean diplomatic mission and the dish came to be named after Tsushima, the domain that handled that diplomacy. Cooking every ingredient through, without using anything raw, fits with the dish's history as both a vegetarian offering for guests and a long-keeping everyday side. That it is often made around Obon and at memorial services also lines up with this account.
Before you go
- How to shop at a supermarketHow to choose prepared foods, sashimi, and packaged sushi, when discount stickers tend to appear, region-only specialties, buying by weight, the checkout and bagging flow, and sampling etiquette at a local supermarket.
- Food for Obon and the harvest moon (tsukimi)A guide to the meat-free shojin ryori and somen served at Obon, and the tsukimi dango offered on the night of the harvest moon.
- At teishoku diners, shokudo, and machi-chukaA guide to the teishoku set-meal format, free rice refills, table placement, and paying at a shokudo-style diner.
Dishes in the same style
- Agonoko UmaniThe roe of egg-bearing flying fish, caught only in early summer, is simmered in stock and soy sauce as an Oki bar snack. Its large grains and dense, sticky texture are prized as a delicacy said to be scarcer even than the fish's flesh.
- Funa MisoCrucian carp is simmered slowly with soybeans for around five hours, then finished in a sauce of red miso and coarse sugar. A freshwater fish dish of the Kiso rivers' lower basin, made with fatty winter carp simmered until the bones soften through.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Yamaguchi
- Chikin Chikin GoboBite-size fried chicken and deep-fried burdock are tossed in a sweet soy glaze in this dish, born in Yamaguchi's school lunches. A nutrition teacher is said to have devised it around 1995 from recipes submitted by families, and its catchy, rhythmic name helped it spread into a statewide favorite.
- Chisha NamasuKakichisha, an heirloom crinkled lettuce grown around Shimonoseki, is torn by hand and tossed with vinegared miso, flaked grilled fish, or whitebait. It is said to have been devised by the Mori domain's people after being impoverished by the Battle of Sekigahara, and is also known as "chishamomi."
- Choshu KurokashiwaSaid to draw on the blood of Kurokashiwa, a natural-monument fowl native to Yamaguchi and Shimane, developed into a jidori by a Yamaguchi research station and finished and named by a poultry farm; reportedly free-ranged for 80–100 days.
- Fugu no KaraagePufferfish, marinated in soy sauce and sake, is coated in potato starch and deep-fried—a homely dish from the Shimonoseki and Hagi areas. While pricier tiger pufferfish goes into sashimi and hot pot, the more affordable shirosabafugu species is the one most often fried this way.
- Fuku SashiPufferfish sashimi is sliced so thin it becomes translucent, then arranged in a chrysanthemum pattern in this Shimonoseki dish. Locals call the fish "fuku," a homophone for good fortune, and eat it with citrus ponzu and scallion; the practice traces to 1888, when eating pufferfish was legalized in Yamaguchi alone.
- GobomakiLizardfish skin, a byproduct of making fish cakes, is wrapped around a skewer of burdock root and grilled with a basting sauce—a dish from Hagi. Because it uses lizardfish, prized for the region's grilled fish cakes, seafood processors often make the two together, and it is a fixture of festival and cherry-blossom bento.