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Otoshi no Gottso
Otoshi no gottso — root vegetables simmered in a big pot for the year-end feast
Root vegetables like daikon, carrot, and taro, along with shredded kelp, are simmered together in one big pot, then reheated and eaten from New Year's Eve through the first three days of the new year — a Gifu year-end dish where the kelp is said to carry a wish for a long, unbroken life.
- Origin: Gifu
- About 250 km west of Tokyo
What it's made of
Root vegetables like daikon, carrot, and taro simmered in dashi with shredded kelp and tofu, a dish for seeing out the old year, so cooked in one big pot and reheated again and again, the vegetables' sweetness and the broth's richness are said to only deepen with each round. Every district is said to include shredded kelp without fail, its long thin strands said to carry a wish for a long life.
How it's made
Daikon, carrot, taro, bitterness-drawn burdock and konnyaku, dried sardines, tofu, and rehydrated shredded kelp are all simmered together in dashi and seasoning. It's said to be made in one big pot on New Year's Eve and reheated repeatedly through the first three days of the new year. Some districts are said to add dried whole sardines too, believing the smoke from grilling them wards off bad luck.
Why it took this shape
The custom of making a big potful and reheating it through New Year's is said to have settled in as a way to let the kitchen, and the whole family, rest during the holiday. In an era before osechi New Year dishes existed, this simmered dish is said to have been the feast itself, offered to the gods and Buddha as thanks for the past year and a wish for a good harvest in the next.
Before you go
- How to shop at a supermarketHow to choose prepared foods, sashimi, and packaged sushi, when discount stickers tend to appear, region-only specialties, buying by weight, the checkout and bagging flow, and sampling etiquette at a local supermarket.
- Osechi and zoni for the New YearA guide to the meaning behind osechi's tiered boxes, the regional differences in zoni (square vs. round mochi, clear vs. miso broth), and the nanakusa-gayu custom.
- Setsubun: ehomaki and lucky beansA guide to ehomaki, the uncut sushi roll said to be eaten facing a lucky direction on Setsubun, and to mamemaki, the bean-throwing custom with roasted lucky beans.
Dishes in the same style
- Agonoko UmaniThe roe of egg-bearing flying fish, caught only in early summer, is simmered in stock and soy sauce as an Oki bar snack. Its large grains and dense, sticky texture are prized as a delicacy said to be scarcer even than the fish's flesh.
- Funa MisoCrucian carp is simmered slowly with soybeans for around five hours, then finished in a sauce of red miso and coarse sugar. A freshwater fish dish of the Kiso rivers' lower basin, made with fatty winter carp simmered until the bones soften through.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Gifu
- Akadatsu no SubuteThe red-purple leaf stalk of taro, called akadatsu, has its fibers removed and is salt-rubbed before being dressed in a sweetened vinegar — a dish of Yamagata City on land whose lime-poor, thin soil suited taro cultivation, once said to be fed to new mothers to aid recovery.
- Ayu NarezushiAyu heading downriver to spawn in autumn, often carrying roe, are salted and stuffed with freshly cooked rice, then packed in a barrel to ferment for about two months — a narezushi of Gifu City said to have been made from fish caught at the Nagara River's cormorant fishery and once presented to the shogunate.
- Ayu ZosuiAyu, grilled plain until fragrant, is flaked and briefly simmered with dashi and rice into a light porridge — a Gifu river-fish dish said to have begun as a way to use ayu too damaged from fishing to sell whole, often served as the closing course at restaurants specializing in ayu.
- FunamisoCrucian carp, first grilled plain, simmers for hours with rehydrated soybeans, then finishes in soybean miso and coarse sugar — a river-fish dish of the Seino region, where the miso's strong umami is said to soften the fish's characteristic edge, simmered until the flesh falls apart as a winter keeping food.
- Ayu no ShioyakiAyu are salted all over, given a decorative touch of salt on fin and tail, then grilled over charcoal on both sides — a river-fish dish of Gifu, said to draw on fish caught fresh at the 1,300-year-old Nagara River cormorant fishery or at the traditional yana weirs that channel fish into a catch.
- Gohei MochiCrushed rice is skewered and grilled, then glazed with a walnut- or peanut-flecked sauce — a dish of the Tono and Hida areas where soy-based sauce dominates north of the old Nakasendo road and miso-based sauce south of it, traditionally served to celebrate the new rice harvest or to honor a guest.