Home-style
Korogaki
Korogaki — a large dried persimmon sun-cured until its sugars crystalize white
Peeled astringent persimmons are hung under the eaves and turned in the sun until their sugars crystalize into a white bloom — a dried persimmon from the Matsuzato area of Koshu city. It is said to be chopped into a New Year salad or even fried in tempura.
- Origin: Yamanashi Koshu
- About 90 km west of Tokyo
What it's made of
Astringent persimmons, peeled, are hung under the eaves and turned again and again so sunlight reaches the whole fruit as it dries. The defining trait is said to be drying it until the sugars crystallize into a white bloom on the surface, giving a chewy sweetness and the concentrated flavor unique to dried persimmon, people say. Strings of orange fruit are said to mark the turn of autumn in these villages.
How it's made
Ripe, reddened persimmons are picked with a T-shaped stem left intact, the calyx removed, and peeled except for a strip of skin at the tip. They're tied with string and hung to dry in the sun under the eaves, people say. Once the surface takes on its white bloom, it's often chopped into New Year's persimmon namasu or fried as tempura once it's hardened, it's said.
Why it took this shape
In a region known for growing large Koshu-hyakume persimmons, drying them into a long-keeping preserve is said to have taken root as a way to use the fruit without waste. Drying it down to 25-30% moisture is said to produce a firmer, longer-lasting persimmon than the softer, moister style found elsewhere. The care taken to keep turning the fruit as it dries seems to be exactly what allows the sugars to crystallize slowly and fully.
Before You Go
- How to shop at a supermarketHow to choose prepared foods, sashimi, and packaged sushi, when discount stickers tend to appear, region-only specialties, buying by weight, the checkout and bagging flow, and sampling etiquette at a local supermarket.
- Food for Obon and the harvest moon (tsukimi)A guide to the meat-free shojin ryori and somen served at Obon, and the tsukimi dango offered on the night of the harvest moon.
- At Teishoku Diners, Shokudo, and Machi-ChukaA guide to the teishoku set-meal format, free rice refills, table placement, and paying at a shokudo-style diner.
Dishes in the same style
- Agonoko UmaniThe roe of egg-bearing flying fish, caught only in early summer, is simmered in stock and soy sauce as an Oki bar snack. Its large grains and dense, sticky texture are prized as a delicacy said to be scarcer even than the fish's flesh.
- Funa MisoCrucian carp is simmered slowly with soybeans for around five hours, then finished in a sauce of red miso and coarse sugar. A freshwater fish dish of the Kiso rivers' lower basin, made with fatty winter carp simmered until the bones soften through.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Yamanashi
- Akebono Daizu no EdamameThe 'akebono' soybean, said to be 1.6 times the size of an ordinary bean, is picked young and salt-boiled — an edamame from the Akebono area of Minobu town. Grown since the Meiji era but resistant to mechanization, aging growers have made it scarce enough to be called a 'phantom bean'.
- Amanatto no OsekihanMade without azuki or cowpea beans, glutinous rice is dyed red with food coloring and mixed with candied sweet beans — a Yamanashi take on celebratory red rice, sweet-salty with a sprinkle of sesame salt. A similarly sweet red rice is said to exist far away in Hokkaido and parts of Tohoku.
- AnbinSweet potato and wheat flour are kneaded with hot water, wrapped around bean paste, slapped flat, and steamed — a sweet from the Kyonan region. Its name is said to come from the slapping motion, revived in Ichikawamisato town's Rokugo area after a local school's closure sparked a heritage-food effort.
- Awabi no NigaiAbalone from Suruga Bay was soy-sauce-marinated and hauled in barrels by horse, the jostling and body heat said to have worked the flavor deep in — a specialty from landlocked Kofu. Sliced thin and paired with its liver, shiso, and cucumber, it endures as a taste of the sea inland.
- Azuki HotoHoto noodles, cut thicker than usual, are simmered in sweet azuki bean soup in place of mochi — a festival food in Yamanashi. The summer festival at Miwa Shrine in Hokuto city's Wakamiko area is nicknamed the 'hoto festival', and azuki's red color is said to ward off misfortune.
- Hirauchi TanmenA salt-based tanmen from Kofu, Yamanashi, built on wide, flat noodles said to feel almost like fettuccine. Bean sprouts, pork, and napa cabbage pile on top for a vegetable-heavy bowl carried on today by several shops around the prefecture.