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Kirizai
Kirizai — natto mixed with finely chopped pickled vegetables
A Uonuma-region dish of natto mixed with finely chopped nozawana pickles and daikon. Said to have grown from the wisdom of using every scrap of preserved food through the long snowbound winters, it works equally well over rice or as a drinking snack.
- Origin: Niigata Minamiuonuma
- About 170 km northwest of Tokyo
What it's made of
Finely chopped pickled turnip greens, daikon and sesame seeds are mixed thoroughly into fermented soybeans, natto, for a simple, rustic dish. The sticky natto gains a burst of texture from the salty crunch of the pickled greens, making it the kind of thing that carries a bowl of rice through second and third helpings. Depending on the region or household, salmon roe, shaved tuna, mountain yam or mekabu seaweed, other sticky ingredients, sometimes join the mix.
How it's made
Pickled turnip greens and daikon are finely minced and mixed thoroughly into well-stirred natto. Because the pickles already carry salt, little or no additional seasoning is used, letting the balance of ingredients alone set the flavor. It's eaten over rice or enjoyed on its own as a drinking snack, and the character of the dish shifts with whatever ingredients go into the mix.
Why it took this shape
In this land shut in by snow for long stretches, preserved foods like pickles and dried goods sustained daily life. In an era when meat and fish were scarce, natto was a precious source of protein, and finely chopping leftover pickles and vegetables to mix in is said to have stretched it further while wasting nothing. The dish grew out of everyday resourcefulness in making the most of what was close at hand.
Before you go
- How to shop at a supermarketHow to choose prepared foods, sashimi, and packaged sushi, when discount stickers tend to appear, region-only specialties, buying by weight, the checkout and bagging flow, and sampling etiquette at a local supermarket.
- Food for Obon and the harvest moon (tsukimi)A guide to the meat-free shojin ryori and somen served at Obon, and the tsukimi dango offered on the night of the harvest moon.
- At teishoku diners, shokudo, and machi-chukaA guide to the teishoku set-meal format, free rice refills, table placement, and paying at a shokudo-style diner.
Dishes in the same style
- Agonoko UmaniThe roe of egg-bearing flying fish, caught only in early summer, is simmered in stock and soy sauce as an Oki bar snack. Its large grains and dense, sticky texture are prized as a delicacy said to be scarcer even than the fish's flesh.
- Funa MisoCrucian carp is simmered slowly with soybeans for around five hours, then finished in a sauce of red miso and coarse sugar. A freshwater fish dish of the Kiso rivers' lower basin, made with fatty winter carp simmered until the bones soften through.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Niigata
- AnboA Chuetsu-region dish of steamed rice-flour dumplings filled with sweet bean paste, pickled greens or eggplant. Similar in spirit to Nagano's oyaki but distinguished by its rice-flour skin, reflecting land suited to rice rather than wheat.
- Echigo misoA red, savory miso from Niigata, also called 'ukikoji miso' (floating-koji miso) because its polished whole-grain rice koji appears to float within the paste. Its style is said to vary across Niigata's Joetsu, Chuetsu, Kaetsu, and Sado districts, each shaped by local climate.
- Fugu no Ko no KasuzukeA rare Sado delicacy in which puffer fish ovaries are salt-cured for two years or more, then aged for a long stretch in Sado's sake lees. Only ovaries processed by licensed fugu chefs are sold, and the practice is said to date back to the Edo period.
- Fukashi NasuA Niigata dish of kinchaku eggplant halved, steamed, chilled and eaten with mustard or ginger soy sauce. In a prefecture among Japan's top eggplant producers, it is said to have been valued as a cooling dish through the summer.
- Hegi SobaA soba from Ojiya, Niigata, that uses funori seaweed, the same binder once used to size thread for the region's textiles, as a noodle binder. It is arranged in small bite-sized portions on a wooden box called a hegi.
- Hiyashijiru Miso JitateA chilled soup from the Chuetsu region, dashi thinned with miso and studded with chopped cucumber and shiso. Devised to stay appetizing through the summer heat, it is said to be eaten on its own or poured over rice or noodles.