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Jabara Daikon no Nimono
Jabara daikon no nimono — accordion-cut dried daikon simmered with vegetables
Daikon is scored and stretched into an accordion shape, then dried in the cold winter wind of southern Aso into a keeping food — said to be a seasonal sight there — before being rehydrated and simmered, its dried texture crisp and its flavor concentrated.
- Origin: Kumamoto Minamiaso
- About 860 km west of Tokyo
What it's made of
A simmered dish using 'jabara daikon,' or 'accordion daikon,' made by scoring the vegetable into an accordion-like fold, stretching it to about three times its length, then drying it in winter's cold wind. Sun-drying is said to concentrate its flavor and nutrients, giving it a seasoning-soaked, crisp texture quite different from fresh daikon. It's a dried daikon that's long been made in the Minamiaso region, taking advantage of the region's cold winter wind.
How it's made
The daikon is laid on its side and cut nearly through at two- to three-millimeter intervals, leaving about five millimeters uncut at the base each time. Flipped over and cut again at an angle through those same slits, it stretches out into an accordion shape by the time the cuts reach the end. It's hung on a pole and dried in the winter wind, then rehydrated in water before going into simmered dishes, vinegared dishes, or miso soup. Because the soaking water carries flavor too, it's often used directly as part of the simmering liquid.
Why it took this shape
In the Minamiaso region, the dried daikon is said to have long been made as a preserved food, taking advantage of the cold winter wind. Drying it let it keep for a long time, and it's thought to have become a staple that carried households through the lean stretch between winter and spring vegetables; the custom of always including it in the simmered dishes served at festivals, memorial services and celebrations is said to continue today. Strung beneath the eaves like a row of white blossoms, it's described as a familiar sight of winter in Minamiaso.
Before You Go
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Dishes in the same style
- Agonoko UmaniThe roe of egg-bearing flying fish, caught only in early summer, is simmered in stock and soy sauce as an Oki bar snack. Its large grains and dense, sticky texture are prized as a delicacy said to be scarcer even than the fish's flesh.
- Funa MisoCrucian carp is simmered slowly with soybeans for around five hours, then finished in a sauce of red miso and coarse sugar. A freshwater fish dish of the Kiso rivers' lower basin, made with fatty winter carp simmered until the bones soften through.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Also from Kumamoto
- Amakusa DaioA large-bodied meat fowl once kept in Amakusa in the Meiji and Taisho eras, said to have died out in the early Showa period before Kumamoto prefecture spent roughly a decade recreating it; reportedly among the biggest jidori breeds, shipped at 120–150 days.
- Gane-ageSweet potato cut into batons is coated in a ginger-sweetened batter and deep-fried. "Gane" is Amakusa dialect for crab, said to describe the shape of the fried strands, and the dish also serves as a vegetarian offering at Buddhist services.
- Tai SomenSomen noodles are simmered in the broth of sea bream head and bones cooked down whole — a celebratory dish said to reflect the influence of nearby Shimabara's somen tradition. In Yamato's Mamihara, a version called "taimen" simmers the whole fish instead.
- Tako MeshiSun-dried octopus is rehydrated, chopped, and either cooked into rice with burdock and carrot or mixed in afterward — a dish that leans on the concentrated flavor of dried octopus, known for the summer sight of octopus hung out to dry in Amakusa's Ariake.
- Baniku SobaFrom the Aso area of Kumamoto: hot soba topped with horse meat simmered sweet and salty. It's said to carry the history of a region where horse meat took root as a restorative food for the injured and ill.
- ButaaeBoiled octopus and eggplant are stir-fried in a sweet, spicy barley miso — an Amakusa home dish said to have begun as a stand-in for pork, once hard to come by, using the local octopus instead while keeping the old name, "pork mix."