Foods to look for in autumn

Returning bonito (modori-gatsuo)

In autumn, the bonito that traveled north over summer are said to head south again, known as modori-gatsuo. Compared with the earlier spring catch, it's said to carry more fat, and a richer flavor is often preferred at this time of year. Because the timing depends on sea conditions, when it actually appears in shops is best treated as a rough guide.

Pacific saury (sanma)

True to its name, sanma is considered a signature autumn fish, and grilling it simply with salt is a widely loved way to eat it once the fish has fattened up. Catch volumes are said to shift from year to year, so both availability and price can vary.

New-crop rice (shinmai)

Rice harvested that same year is called shinmai, said to cook up glossy and moist compared with rice held in storage longer. Shipping timing differs by growing region and variety, so it tends to appear on shelves over a spread of weeks rather than all at once.

Matsutake mushroom

Known for its strong aroma, matsutake is considered one of autumn's signature ingredients. Wild matsutake yields are said to be sensitive to weather, and prices can swing quite a bit as a result, so both timing and availability vary year to year.

Chestnuts and tsukimi dango

Chestnuts are enjoyed roasted, in chestnut rice, or as a wagashi ingredient through autumn. Around the night of the "fifteenth night" (jugoya, the traditional harvest moon), it's said to be customary to stack small rice dumplings, tsukimi dango, as an offering — with the shape and arrangement said to vary by region.

Related foods

If new-crop rice interests you, see "Rice Varieties"; for autumn seafood, see "Fish"; for tsukimi dango and other sweets, see "Wagashi"; and for matsutake and other mushrooms, see "Mushrooms."