ITADAKI ATLAS

Home-style ── Gohan no otomo (rice companions)

Ika no Shiokara

Ika no shiokara — salted, fermented squid

Squid flesh and innards salted together and left to ferment, its heavy salt said to hold concentrated umami. Depending on the method, there are named types like aka-zukuri, shiro-zukuri, and kuro-zukuri.

Lineage

Ika no ShiokaraSakana no Shiokara

What it's made of

Ika no shiokara is squid flesh sliced thin, mixed with its innards and salt, and left to ferment. Under the heavy salt, the squid's own sweetness and the richness of the innards are said to seep through. Depending on the method, there are three named types — aka-zukuri, shiro-zukuri, and kuro-zukuri — each said to differ in flavor and color.

How it's made

Fresh squid is separated into flesh and innards; the flesh is sliced thin and mixed well with the innards and salt. Left to age in the refrigerator for days to weeks, enzymes from the innards are said to build up both umami and stickiness over that time. Shiro-zukuri uses skinned flesh, kuro-zukuri adds squid ink — the method and region are said to steer the flavor in different directions.

Why it took this shape

It's thought to have grown out of a preservation instinct in seafood-rich regions — salting flesh and innards together so nothing from the catch went to waste. A similar product, shuto, is said to differ in using only the innards, where shiokara uses both flesh and innards. Before refrigeration, it's said to have taken root region by region as a way to keep eating a heavy catch long after it came in.

Before You Go

Report a correction