ITADAKI ATLAS

Fried ── Fried dishes

Satsuma-age

sweet fried fish cake

Fish paste mixed with tofu and sugar and fried, a Kagoshima fish cake known locally as tsuke-age. One account credits lord Nariakira Shimazu with frying it for better keeping quality; another traces it to Ryukyuan cooking.

Lineage

Satsuma-ageJako-tenGansu

What it's made of

Fish paste mixed with tofu, local sake, and sugar is shaped and fried slowly in oil. The surface turns golden, and a springy bite gives way to a faint sweetness underneath. Finishing it sweeter than similar fish cakes elsewhere is said to be distinctly Kagoshima, and it's enjoyed either as is or reheated over a flame.

How it's made

Paste from horse mackerel, mackerel, or flying fish is kneaded with drained firm tofu, local sake, sugar, and sweet-potato starch, shaped into bars or blocks, and fried slowly at around 160°C. Adding tofu is said to give it a soft, airy texture, and sweetening it with sugar is what sets it apart from similar fried fish cakes elsewhere in Japan.

Why it took this shape

One account holds that in the Edo period, the Satsuma domain's lord Nariakira Shimazu, inspired by hanpen and kamaboko from Kishu, turned it into a fried food to improve its keeping quality in Kagoshima's hot, humid climate. Another traces the name tsuke-age to a corruption of chiki-agi, a fried fish cake from Ryukyuan cooking — either way, contact with other domains and Ryukyu is thought to underlie the flavor.

Before you go

Report a correction