Fermented & preserved
Shottsuru
Akita's fermented hatahata fish sauce
A fish sauce made by fermenting local catch — chiefly hatahata (sailfin sandfish) — with salt for over a year. Home brewing is said to date back to the early Edo period, and it is counted among Japan's three great fish sauces, known above all as the seasoning behind the winter hot pot shottsuru-nabe.
- Origin: Akita Oga
- About 470 km north of Tokyo
Lineage
What it's made of
An amber liquid seasoning made by long-fermenting fish, carrying both saltiness and a deep umami. It's surprisingly free of fishy odor, since the fermentation process breaks fish protein down into the umami compounds that define its flavor. Even a small amount added to a hot pot deepens the whole broth, functioning less like a seasoning added to ingredients and more like the broth itself.
How it's made
Local catch — chiefly hatahata (sailfin sandfish) — is packed whole or with its innards in salt and left to ferment for over a year. The flesh gradually breaks down into liquid, which is then strained off and used as a seasoning. The long fermentation is said to break down the compounds behind fishy odor while concentrating umami compounds in their place.
Why it took this shape
It's said to have grown out of a preserved-food tradition along Akita's coast, with home brewing dating back to the early Edo period. Preserving the hatahata caught in bulk each winter, and stretching limited ingredients into a source of salt and umami, is thought to have driven its development. It's counted one of the fish sauces still made in Japan, known above all as the seasoning behind the winter hot pot shottsuru-nabe.
Dishes in the same style
- Achara ZukeWhite melon, eggplant, and lotus root are pickled in a sweet vinegar spiked with red chili — the name is said to trace to the Portuguese 'achar', carried in through Hakata Bay's old trade, and an odd number of vegetables is used for Obon hospitality.
- AhodakiOld takuan pickle, once its flavor and aroma have faded, is desalted and simmered again in soy sauce, a pantry staple from the Hokusei area. Its name — playfully self-deprecating, roughly "doing a foolish thing" — nods to eating it well past its prime, a frugal way to waste nothing.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Related lineage
- IshiruA fish sauce native to the Noto Peninsula, made mainly from squid innards on the inner-bay coast and from sardine or mackerel on the outer coast. Its year-plus fermentation technique is a registered Intangible Folk Cultural Property, and it is counted among Japan's three great fish sauces.
- Ikanago shoyuA fish sauce fermented from sand lance and salt for six months or more, mainly produced in the Aji district of Takamatsu, Kagawa. It is said to have disappeared for a time before local volunteers revived production around 1998, and it is counted among Japan's three great fish sauces.
Also from Akita
- Akazushi (Akazuke)Cooked glutinous rice cured briefly in red shiso and vinegar — an Akita sushi with no fish in it at all, a plant-based cousin of narezushi also offered at Obon altars.
- AsazukeBroken rice grains are pureed, simmered, and seasoned sweet-and-sour with sugar and vinegar, then mixed with cucumber, turnip, and seasonal fruit — a summer dessert unrelated to the pickle of the same name, said to refresh women after a day planting rice.
- Edokei RamenA soy ramen topped with a knob of bright red chili miso built on garlic and garlic chives. Stirred in gradually as you eat, it turns a mild bowl steadily richer and spicier — a specialty of Akita City.
- Akita HoshimochiSliced mochi is strung up, soaked in water, then left to freeze and thaw through the winter cold in a process called 'kanjime' — the result crisp and filling, said to have fueled breaks during rice-planting season.
- Imonoko JiruBaby taro corms called 'imonoko' simmer with chicken, mushrooms, and wild greens in miso or soy — an autumn soup said to use taro grown in Yokote's Sannai district, prized for its soft bite, and set alongside kiritanpo nabe as the region's autumn counterpart.
- Akita no SakeAkita sake, brewed with soft water in deliberate contrast to Nada's hard water, aiming for a mellow, delicate character. Breweries buried in snow are said to gain a natural insulating effect from it, a tradition of slow, low-temperature fermentation built around that climate.