ITADAKI ATLAS

Rice dishes ── Donburi (rice bowls)

Ikura-don

salmon roe rice bowl

Soy-cured salmon roe piled generously over rice. The word ikura is said to have entered Japanese from Russian in the Meiji era, and the dish is said to have spread widely from the Taisho era, centered on Hokkaido.

What it's made of

Glistening ikura is piled generously over rice. Each spoonful pops as the roe's membrane gives way, releasing a rich, salty richness, and the faint sound of the beads shifting against each other is part of the pleasure of eating this bowl.

How it's made

Fresh salmon roe skeins are rinsed in salt water, separated into loose eggs, and steeped overnight in a marinade of sake and soy sauce to make ikura no shoyuzuke. Some households mellow the flavor further with dashi. The cured roe is piled generously over hot rice, sometimes finished with shredded nori.

Why it took this shape

The word ikura itself is said to have entered Japanese from Russian in the Meiji era, with accounts ranging from prisoners of the Russo-Japanese War to contact through North Pacific fishing, and it's said to have become widely eaten only from the Taisho era on. In Hokkaido, a major salmon fishery, using freshly landed roe skeins without waste is thought to be what settled the dish into a bowl.

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