Raw
Basashi
Basashi — thinly sliced raw horse meat dipped in sweet soy sauce
Thin slices of raw horse meat are eaten with grated ginger, onion, and sweet soy sauce — a Kumamoto specialty said to trace back to Kato Kiyomasa eating his own war horses during a Korean campaign, later spreading around Aso in the postwar food shortage.
- Origin: Kumamoto City, Kumamoto
- About 890 km west of Tokyo
What it's made of
Thin slices of raw horse meat eaten with sliced onion, grated ginger and garlic, and a sweet soy sauce. Because the cut surface is a clean shade of pink, it's also called 'sakura meat,' and the flavor differs by cut, from the marbled loin to the leaner leg meat. Low in fat, high in protein, and rich in iron and calcium, it's said to have long been valued as a food for building strength.
How it's made
A block of horse meat is kept chilled until an order comes in, then sliced thin to order. It's served with condiments like sliced onion, grated ginger, grated garlic and chopped scallion, and eaten dipped in a sweet soy sauce. Another way to eat it is finely minced and mixed with fermented soybeans and a quail egg. The marbled cuts have fat with a low melting point that turns liquid quickly, so they're best eaten soon after slicing.
Why it took this shape
The custom of eating horse meat is said to trace back to a time when, food having run out on the Korean peninsula, people turned to eating army horses, a practice said to have spread to Kumamoto and the Aso region after the Meiji era. The Aso region, a center for raising army horses, is said to have taken up eating horse meat again amid postwar food shortages, which is thought to be how eating it raw and thinly sliced became the standard. Horses run hotter than cattle or pigs, which makes it harder for food-poisoning bacteria to take hold, a trait also said to underpin the custom of eating it raw.
Dishes in the same style
- Akagarei no KomaburiRoe-bearing red flounder is sliced into sashimi and tossed with its own boiled, crumbled eggs, a dish from around the Amijiro area of Iwami Town. Said to have descended from a similar dish made with crucian carp roe, it pairs rich eggs with mild, fatty winter flounder for festivals and New Year's.
- Amagi no KawatakeA rare wild freshwater algae, found only in the Kogane River in Asakura, is dressed with sweet or three-flavor vinegar — said to have once been presented to the shogun, and now conservation efforts continue as it's listed as endangered.
Ingredients and dishes from this land
Contrast
- Baniku SobaFrom the Aso area of Kumamoto: hot soba topped with horse meat simmered sweet and salty. It's said to carry the history of a region where horse meat took root as a restorative food for the injured and ill.
- Hone KajiriBone-in wild boar or pork is simmered from cold water for about three hours and seasoned with nothing but salt — named, it is said, for how everyone sucks the marrow from the bone, a banquet dish in Oku-Kuma said to trace back to hunters' cooking.
Also from Kumamoto
- Amakusa DaioA large-bodied meat fowl once kept in Amakusa in the Meiji and Taisho eras, said to have died out in the early Showa period before Kumamoto prefecture spent roughly a decade recreating it; reportedly among the biggest jidori breeds, shipped at 120–150 days.
- Gane-ageSweet potato cut into batons is coated in a ginger-sweetened batter and deep-fried. "Gane" is Amakusa dialect for crab, said to describe the shape of the fried strands, and the dish also serves as a vegetarian offering at Buddhist services.
- Tai SomenSomen noodles are simmered in the broth of sea bream head and bones cooked down whole — a celebratory dish said to reflect the influence of nearby Shimabara's somen tradition. In Yamato's Mamihara, a version called "taimen" simmers the whole fish instead.
- Tako MeshiSun-dried octopus is rehydrated, chopped, and either cooked into rice with burdock and carrot or mixed in afterward — a dish that leans on the concentrated flavor of dried octopus, known for the summer sight of octopus hung out to dry in Amakusa's Ariake.
- ButaaeBoiled octopus and eggplant are stir-fried in a sweet, spicy barley miso — an Amakusa home dish said to have begun as a stand-in for pork, once hard to come by, using the local octopus instead while keeping the old name, "pork mix."