ITADAKI ATLAS

Meat ── Beef cuts

Shintama

knuckle — a lean, economical round cut

Part of the round, mostly lean with little fat. Somewhat coarse-grained but used widely — sliced thin, simmered, or roasted — with a finer-grained inner portion sometimes distinguished as "shinshin".

Shintama

Lineage

ShintamaTomosankaku

What it's made of

Part of the round, mostly lean with little fat. Somewhat coarse-grained overall, though a finer-grained inner portion is sometimes distinguished as "shinshin." Its cross-section is a pale pink, and its low fat gives it a lighter impression than the other leg cuts. Sitting at the center of the round, it's made up of several muscles meeting together, so the grain is said to run in different directions from section to section.

How it's made

Used widely — sliced thin, simmered, or roasted for roast beef. With so little fat, it toughens quickly if overcooked, and slow, low-temperature roasting is said to suit it best. It's also sliced thin for shabu-shabu, where its low fat is said to make for a cleaner-tasting bite. Cubed for curry or stew, it's said to soften in less time than most other cuts.

Why it took this shape

Valued as an economical cut for its low fat content, it's said to see frequent use in home cooking. Where a cut like sirloin represents lean meat treated as rare and prized, this cut is said to stand for the everyday, workaday side of lean beef. Valued less as a special-occasion treat than as a practical, everyday lean cut, it's said to have long supported the family table. Commonly sold as trimmings or in thin-sliced packs, its affordability is said to be part of why it's stayed a favorite.

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