ITADAKI ATLAS

Meat ── Beef cuts

Hohoniku

beef cheek — a hard-working, gelatin-rich muscle

The cheek muscle, firm from constant use. Rich in gelatin, its deep flavor is drawn out through slow simmering, and it is yielded in small enough amounts that it rarely appears at retail.

Hohoniku

What it's made of

The cheek muscle, firm from constant use. Rich in gelatin and low in fat, with a savoriness that deepens the more it's chewed. Its cross-section is finely threaded with sinew, and layers of gelatin can sometimes be seen running through the lean. A muscle in constant use for chewing and grinding, its fibers are said to pack more densely than in most other cuts.

How it's made

Slow simmering softens its toughness and melts the gelatin into a rich depth of flavor. Yielded in small amounts per animal, it's said to rarely appear at retail, mostly used cubed or in whole blocks for simmered dishes. The longer it simmers, the more its fibers are said to loosen until it can be pulled apart with just a fork. It pairs well with Western-style braising in red wine or demi-glace, and is said to sometimes become a signature dish at specialty restaurants.

Why it took this shape

Too tough for anything but simmering, it's often used in Western-style beef stew and other braised dishes. Alongside shank and oxtail, other cuts suited to slow cooking, it illustrates a truth about beef: the hardest-working muscles often reward the longest simmer. Labor-intensive as it is, that same effort is said to be exactly what deepens its flavor, earning it a loyal following.

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